Begin your first drape on either the right or left side, and bring it up, over, and down the other side. Repeat your second drape in the opposite direction. Continue back and forth, alternating sides.
Tiles need to be installed in a square space. Holding a bubble level to a straight, 6- or 8-foot board, make sure that both walls and the floor are plumb vertical and level. In many cases, they will not be plumb and level.
If it is off by more than a half-inch, you need to correct the wall or floor. Additional trim and baseboards can cover up severe problems. This can be remedied by taking the following step. Along the outside of your tile field, any tile slivers tiles that are less than half the width of the tile itself will markedly show the out-of-plumb wall.
You can remedy this by making sure that the tiles are positioned so that no slivers are used. Also, make sure that tiles are symmetrical. In each row, any partial tiles should be at the very left and right sides. Each partial tile in a row should be the same width. Wet tile saws produce cleaner cut edges than snap tile cutters do. Snap tile cutters work fine when you can hide those imperfect edges with baseboards or shoe molding.
But wall tile doesn't afford you the same luxury: all edges are visible, and very much so. For that reason, it's helpful to buy or rent a wet tile saw for perfect tile cut lines. Actively scan device characteristics for identification. Use precise geolocation data. Select personalised content. Create a personalised content profile. Measure ad performance.
The mortar needs to be workable and not too wet. Remember the more water in the mix, the more will have to evaporate and cause shrinkage. Some installers bring the mortar to the wall site in 5- gallon buckets. They then use a combination of a margin trowel and finish trowel to apply the mortar to the surface.
In this way a larger amount of mortar is at hand on top of the hawk to apply to the wall. Some workers have been known to use both at once on large walls to speed the process. Nevertheless, force the mortar into the wire mesh a tightly as possible with the initial coat. The idea here is to imbed the mortar fully into and behind the reinforcement. If the reinforcement can be fully encased, it will have a better chance of resisting corrosion.
Once the wall area has been initially coated, the float strips can be set in place. Build a column of mortar for the float strips at the desired locations. The number of strips is dependent on the size and length of the wall. If setting the strips vertically, the strips must be positioned to allow the installer to reach all ends of the wall surface with the metal feather edge or screed. The same is true of the horizontal method of setting the float strips.
My horizontal method is only useful in tub and shower enclosures that involve a back wall. In a three-wall tub of shower enclosure, start at the back wall first. Set the lower float strip measuring from the edge of the membrane as discussed earlier.
Use a level or straight edge to imbed the float strip to insure that it is flat along its length. Failure to set the float strips flat will result in the wall being floated in an uneven plane.
Remember the float strip sets the final dimension of the finished floated mortar bed. After the lower float strip is set and adjusted, set the upper strip in a similar manner. However, use a level to plumb the strip accurately. Next set the sidewall float strips in a similar fashion starting at the bottom first. However, use a square between the back and sidewall float strips to insure that the two walls are square to one another.
Squaring the side and back walls is critical when building an installation that will receive a tiled floor. The beauty of the mortar system is that walls can be built square to one another. This allows the tile on the floor to be installed square, straight, and full if desired. If setting the float strips vertically, simply imbed the strips using a level to the desired depth.
In this way the plumb of the strip can be accomplished along with the depth measurements. In either case, imbed the float strips into the column of mortar to represent the desired finished plane of the mortar bed.
This is accomplished by knowing the desired thickness of the bed. If the solid backing is plumb and in accurate plane, the mortar bed should be a consistent depth throughout. At this point, the installer begins the process of filling in the spaces between the float strips. Starting from the bottom, build the mortar by eye to a depth a little deeper that the float strip depth.
Then use the feather edge or screed to cut off the excess. While this step is in progress, be sure to fill in any holes or depressions encountered. You will be surprised at how fast this technique can be mastered. While the mortar bed is still plastic, the float strips need to be removed and the recesses filled in with mortar. Accomplish this by using a margin trowel to cut along both edges of the float strip to loosen them.
Gently pry the strip from one end carefully loosening it as you go. Fill in the recess with a combined use of a margin trowel; finish trowel, or wood float cutting the excess mortar off the top of the recess. Once this has been accomplished, give the mortar bed a smoothing trowelling with the finish trowel or wood float.
Tile can be applied directly to a fresh mortar bed with a trowelable paste made from Portland cement and water. A common preference is to allow the mortar bed to cure and set the tile using the thin set method. ANSI A The longer the mortar bed cures the better. In fact, some Manufacturers of thin set products recommend longer curing time. Consult the product literature for the instructions for the product that you wish to use.
If the wall area does not have solid backing a different method will have to be chosen. A common preference when encountering open stud areas is to install solid backing then proceed with the one coat method. This can be seen in Figure B. In Figure B, note that the mortar bed thickness is greater than that of the one coat method. In many cases, this fact alone makes the one coat system more desirable. In practice, the metal lath and membrane are applied to the studs in the same manner as in Figure A.
The scratch coat is similar to the initial coat indicated in Figure A. However, the work then ceases for 24 hours while the scratch coat cures. This leveling coat should then be scratched using a scratching tool as described in the tool section. Following the curing of the scratch coat, the float strips and final coat are applied by the installer in the same way as indicated in Figure A.
You can find all sorts of additives at your local hardware store. These can do everything from making the grout more water resistant to changing the color to match your tiles. Spread the grout , using a grout float. Now, spread the grout using a grout float in a roughly 3x3' area, or whatever size you can grout in about 20 minutes.
You do not want to push the grout around parallel to the lines, since this can gouge the grout back out of the gaps. You can save yourself some time by using the grout float to remove as much of the excess grout off of the tiles as possible.
Clean the grout. After allowing the grout to cure for 20 minutes wipe the tiles with a clean, damp sponge to remove any excess grout from the tiled surface. Wipe just a small area, clean out the sponge, and then wipe some more. It is best to do this for each small area as you complete it but you can wait until you have done two to four small areas as well. Keep in mind, however, that it will be much harder to get the grout off and the final look may not be as professional.
Allow it to cure. Now, allow the grout to cure for three hours or whatever amount of time is recommended on your product directions. Make sure that the area remains dry and that it gets adequate ventilation. Some additives may cause the grout to cure more slowly. See the included packaging for any addendums to the curing process. You can clean off any remaining residue after the grout has cured. An old sock or dry rag work well for this.
Seal the grout. Once you have installed all of your tile, you'll want to apply a grout sealer. This will help keep mold from growing in the gaps and will need to be reapplied usually every year preferably every six months.
Though every sealer is different, usually it is a wax which must be applied in a circular motion with a rag. You can also get brush-on or spray-on tile sealer. Do not put these sealers on non-glazed, unfinished tile. It will absorb into and possibly stain the tile. Did you know you can get expert answers for this article? Unlock expert answers by supporting wikiHow. Art Fricke. Support wikiHow by unlocking this expert answer. Not Helpful 1 Helpful 3.
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By using this service, some information may be shared with YouTube. In wet environments, it is best to apply a bead of silicone caulking around the borders of the tile installation.
Helpful 66 Not Helpful If you notice a skin forming on top of the thinset mortar or tile mastic, do not install tiles over it. Scrape it off using a paint scraper and apply fresh mortar before continuing.
Helpful 36 Not Helpful Ceramic tiles can be applied to nearly any surface, including both painted and unfinished drywall. However, for the best adhesion, consider installing cement backer board underneath the tiles. Helpful 46 Not Helpful If you need to remove existing tile or eventually need to change the tile you're laying down now, removing ceramic tile is an easy task and you can do it yourself by hand or using an electric chisel hammer.
Helpful 1 Not Helpful 0. You Might Also Like How to. How to. Expert Interview. About This Article. Co-authored by:. Co-authors: Updated: September 15, Categories: Tiles and Tiling. Article Summary X To install ceramic wall tile, use a level and measuring tape to mark the tile locations on the wall with chalk.
Italiano: Rivestire una Parete di Piastrelle in Ceramica. Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read , times. I have done some tiling before so it is not altogether new to me. Your instructions and pictures simply confirm that I am on the right track. Many thanks. More reader stories Hide reader stories. Did this article help you? Cookies make wikiHow better. By continuing to use our site, you agree to our cookie policy.
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